Wave Size

Wave size is very important especially if you are a beginner. When you are looking for surf you are not looking for a big wave. This is because you are unfamiliar with the break and do not know the reef. No matter how good you think you are at swimming it might not save you from a fat set on a shallow reef. Even if the wave looks like it is only about 8 feet tall (from the face) it still packs a lot of power especially for a beginner who doesn’t know how to duck dive. You also have to remember that the waves look a lot bigger when you’re lying down on your board.

What you are looking for is a small wave with nice shape. I would suggest a head high wave with a long standing face such as Chun’s reef. Chun’s reef is an excellent place for beginners because the waves are long and have less strength than most other waves on the North Shore. It is also good because there are tons of other beginners out there so you won’t look like a fool when you fall or mess up.

(Good wave for beginner on the left)

(Bad wave for beginner below)

It is also good to check the incoming swell before you paddle out. Even if it looks small and harmless that can change in a matter of minutes especially if it is the big wave season (January to march). You do not want to be the person that gets in over his head and has to be drug in by the lifeguards.

If you live at a place where you have to drive to go check surf I would suggest going on surfline.com. On this site you can check out the forecast and you can even watch surf breaks through their webcams. So you can pretty much see what you’re going to be surfing without driving anywhere. If you are not near a computer and you want to know how big the waves are you can call the buoys at 808-973- 6114.